A Rum about Dunder and Muck
In a Glass
Product: Hampden Estate HLCF
Origin: Trelawny, Jamaica
Category: Overproof Rum
ABV: 60 %
Ingredients: Sugarcane molasses, aged for 4 years in Ex Bourbon Casks
Tasting Notes
Appearance
Bright gold with amber highlights.
Nose
Intense and unmistakable. Ripe banana, pineapple, mango and papaya burst from the glass. These are followed by orange peel, glue, nail polish notes, olives and fermented fruit.
Palate
Powerful and complex. Tropical fruits dominate the entry, accompanied by candied orange, banana and pineapple. The mid palate develops spice, licorice, light herbal notes and the signature funky ester profile.
Finish
Exceptionally long and intense. Tropical fruit, citrus zest, spice and classic Jamaican funk linger for minutes.
Production
Before we talk about the production I have to maybe explain the addition of “HLCF” in the name, because it says a lot about the Product. HLCF means Hampden Light Continental Flavoured and is the fourth of eight Marks/ Ester Categories of Hampden Estate Rum.
You can’t avoid talking about esters when discussing Jamaican rum and Hampden Estate in particular. So what are Esters? Esters are formed through a reaction between an acid and an alcohol creating a new compound with its own aroma depending on the type of acid and the type of alcohol. More Estres means more Aroma and Aroma is important for spirits, which goes without saying . During fermentation yeast produces alcohol, acids and many aroma compounds. Different yeast strains, temperatures and fermentation times create different esters and therefore different fruit aromas.
| Mark | Name | Esterlevel |
| OWH | Outram W. Hussey | 40–80 g/HLPA |
| LFCH | Lawrence Francis Close Hussey | 85–120 g/HLPA |
| LROK | Light Rum Owen Kelly | 200–400 g/HLPA |
| HLCF | Hampden Light Continental Flavoured | 400–600 g/HLPA |
| <>H | Diamond H | 900–1000 g/HLPA |
| HGML | Hampden George MacFarquhar Lawson | 1100–1200 g/HLPA |
| C<>H | C Diamond H | 1300–1400 g/HLPA |
| DOK | Dermot Owen Kelly | 1500–1600 g/HLPA |
A “Mark” refers to a specific distillate characterized by a distinctive production process and a corresponding aroma profile. Continental Flavoured in the Mark HLCF is most likely derived from the historical fact that European merchants used to buy the rum to spice up other “mass-market” rums.
Let’s take a look at the production process.
At Hampden, everything is a little different; when we talk about raw materials, we are referring to five areas: molasses content, cane juice vinegar, dunder addition, water content, and muck addition. The Molasses is from Jamaica and a part of the sugarcane is grown on the estate itself. Cane juice vinegar is one of the secrets for the “Jamaican Funk” in the Rum, next to the main building the distillery has a large, open basin in which fresh sugarcane juice from the Estate is turned in Vinegar, through the wild yeasts and acetic acid bacteria present in the air. During the fermentation of the Mash the acids of the vinegar and the alcohol building Esters. The dunder addition is the addition of leftovers of the last distillation, the dunder itself does not bring new esters in the mash but its full of acids and nutrients. Some of you might be familiar with this process from American whiskey; there, it is referred to as “sour mash.” Water content speaks for itself, more water, lighter Rum, It is worth noting in particular that the water for Hampden comes from the distillery’s own spring. Last but not least the Muck Addition, the muck is a mix of dunder leftovers, cane trash, yeast residues and some natural additives to regulate the PH value. This mix with the lovely name “Muck” is added to the mash a little later, towards the end of fermentation. So, once again, there are various acids and wild yeasts that produce esters through their reaction with the alcohols.
The length of the fermentation is four days for the alcohol and three days of “Dead Wash” for more Esters, so in total 7 Days of fermentation and then the liquid is ready for distillation.
The Distillation takes place in a copper double-retort pot stills, the only style of still Hampden Estate have. The ABV goal for the distillation is about 85,5-86,5%.
The Rum is aged in Ex Bourbon Casks for four years in the tropical climate from Jamaica and afterward bottled at 60% ABV.
History
Hampden started to operate in 1753 as a big sugarcane plantation under Archibald Stirling, a Scot, 26 years later this Scot built the Hampden Great House, in which the ground floor was used as a rum warehouse until the 20th century.
After 1827 the owner changed, Dermot Owen Kelly-Lawson (after him, the 8th Mark is named DOK) was the new owner who became the Custos of St. James and Justice Of The Peace of Trelawny in 1875. Mr. Farquharson married Kelly-Lawson’s daughter and inherited Hampden upon Ena Kelly-Lawson’s passing.
During the first world war Hampden built a wharf in Falmouth, 17 km away, it was primarily used for the shipment of rum and sugar. Today it is an important port for the biggest cruise ships.
The Family of Farquarson (the family name was later simplified to Farquarson ) operated the estate producing sugar and rum until 2003. The Jamaica Sugar Company got in charge but not for long after six years Everglades Farms Ltd, which is owned by the Hussey Family (the name “Hussey” can also found in the 8 Marks), acquired Hampden. With the new owners Hampden began to store and mature their rums directly at the Estate. In 2018 the first official Hampden Bottlings were launched commercially.
While Hampden is historically extremely old, the brand known today for high-quality official Hampden bottlings is relatively young.
My Take
Hampden Estate HLCF is a special one. I don’t know, but I love this taste, the taste of Jamaican funk. I can understand that a lot of people are afraid or overwhelmed by the strengths and power of this liquid. It’s for sure a rum that’s not so easy to handle.
I like to sip it neat but also in cocktails, if the Funk is too much for you, try it as a part ingredient, split the rum amount in parts, and look at the Hampden Estate HLCF as a spice and not mainly as a rum.
Best Used In
Mai Tai
Daiquiri
Old Fashioned
